Friday, July 31, 2026

But these streets are not paved; they have quite the look of so many fields or meadows

Torneo does not satisfy the expectation which we are led to form of a town, from which, as a central point, the trade with all the polar regions as far as the Frozen Ocean is carried on; and it disappoints us the more, as it is so much connected with the rich and cultivated country down the river. There are a number of streets, it is true; they are generally straight, and intersect one another at right angles. A plan of the town would exhibit it as large and regular. But these streets are not paved; they have quite the look of so many fields or meadows, they are so grown over with grass. We see few traces of footsteps in them, and carriages only go through the lower principal street. The upper streets are actually barred. The inhabitants have the exclusive right of feeding their own cows on them, and perhaps also of making hay; and hence it not unfrequently happens that when the people of the more southern parts of Sweden wish to divest themselves at the expence of Torneo, they assert that the market-place and the hay made from it belong to the regular revenues of the mayor ( burger meister ). However, the road from Stockholm to the Bothnian Gulph goes through the market-place , and the streets which run from it towards the river-side. In this quarter, therefore, every thing looks better and more respectable. We see several houses two stories high, painted and ornamented; and at the river-side the house of M. Carlenius, the merchant, has a most distinguished appearance. All the other houses are merely low huts, and they are situated at a distance from one another; for every hut has generally its little garden beside it, containing flowers, garden stuffs and herbs, and beautiful mountain-ash trees. The life and stir is confined to the landing-place on the banks of the river, and it is soon lost in the empty streets. The country round is altogether flat, and almost Dutch. Three windmills with the church cover the almost imperceptible hill before the town; and in the adjoining church-yard wall there is probably the same wooden steeple on which Charles XI. once saw the sun at midnight, and from which Manpertuis and his associates began to calculate their degree. The sea is not visible, and the stir in the harbour is not at present very great; I saw only two or three yachts. But the prospect down the river is rather beautiful; for the church of Nieder Torneo, on an island on the other side of the Elv, has a beautiful appearance . It is a shining stone building in the shape of a cross, and the steeple a high cupola rising from the middle with lanterns on it. There is something unexpected and singularly attractive in this view .

Leopold von Buch: Travels through Norway and Lapland, during the years 1806, 1807, and 1808. 1813

Thursday, July 9, 2026

I did not expect to find any such place as this away up here

The appearance of Helsingfors, approaching from the sea, is very imposing, for its public buildings are large, elegant structures, the principal ones being on elevated ground. The inner harbor is nearly in the shape of a square, and vessels go up to the wharves on the left.

"What is that large building, Dr. Winstock?" asked Commodore Lincoln, as the ship stood up the harbor.

"That is the Russian church."

"It is a magnificent building," added the young officer, as he gazed with admiration upon the lofty building with its gilded dome.

"All the Russian churches are beautiful buildings; and you will find that those in St. Petersburg and Moscow far excel this one. The large structures in front of us are the Lutheran church, the University, - which was moved from Abo to this place, - and the Senate House."

" I did not expect to find any such place as this away up here. VWhy, it is one of the finest cities I ever looked upon! " exclaimed the commodore.

"I was as much astonished as you are when I first came here," added the doctor. 

Wednesday, June 17, 2026

We hired, at a rouble each, a little miniature steam-boat

After dinner, unappalled by an inky sky, we hired, at a rouble each, a little miniature steam-boat, with a machine scarce bigger than a tea-kettle, which whizzed and fumed us about at the will of two Swedish lads, and landed us at Sveaborg. This island is about five acres in extent, loaded with crown buildings and a population of military, and sacred to the memory of Field-Marshal Count Ehrensward, whose monument stands here. Thence we steered for the Scheeren, literally the Scissors, a beautiful chasm of sea, between meeting and retreating islands, where trees with leaves grow by the water's edge; and where the Helsingforstians in their holiday expeditions land and bear off a leaf with as keen a pleasure as we should the choicest bouquet. But "pleasure suits itself to all,-the rich can but be pleased." The rain fell occasionally in torrents around us; but our little puffing bark seemed to bear a charm, or, as a ready Russian officer of the party observed, " pas un, mais plusieurs ;" and we passed dry on, while some delicious voices on board gave us alternately German and Russian melodies.

John H. Drummond: Letters from the Baltic. Kirjassa Western Barbary: its wild tribes and savage animals. 1844

Wednesday, May 20, 2026

When I arrived at Helsingfors, the whole city was in motion

 A steamboat plies several times a day between Helsingfors and Sveaborg, and conveys passengers to the foot of the fortress. If you penetrate the enclosure, you find only convicts dragging their chains, and soldiers. If you attempt to pause before an inscription, or to cross the threshhold of a gate, a sentry, with sabre at his side and gun on his shoulder, addresses to you immediately an energetic command which cuts short conversation and exploration.

When I arrived at Helsingfors, the whole city was in motion; they were awaiting the hereditary prince, and preparing for him a pompous reception. At last salvos of artillery resounded on the ramparts of Sveaborg. The Grand Duke arrived in a magnificent steamboat. He went at first to the church, according to the custom of Russian sovereigns; he is a tall and handsome young man, of a mild and interesting countenance. In the hasty conversation which he did me the honor to grant me, he spoke with great justice of several foreign countries, with a lively sympathy of this beautiful country of Finland, which he now saw for the first time, and whose aspect enchanted him. He was accompanied by Prince Menschikoff, governor-general of the province, admiral of the empire, and one of the most intelligent and well-informed men among the high Russian officers. The Grand Duke turned towards him at every instant, and seemed to consult him with the deference of a modest pupil who is interrogating his master. If the atmosphere of the court, and the exercise of power, do not affect his natural endowments, the Grand Duke promises to Russia a sovereign of noble character and rare amiability.


Anne T. Wilbur. Sveaborg. Translated from the French for Ballou's Pictorial. Ballou's pictorial drawing-room companion vol IX. 1855

Saturday, April 25, 2026

We should have liked to remain in Uleaborg much longer

 Had circumstances permitted we should have liked to remain in Uleaborg much longer, but, had we done so, should have been obliged to abandon going to other attractive places. So, with heart-felt thanks for all his kindness, we bade adieu to the Consul, who accompanied us to the steamer, and started upon our journey up the Ulea river.

The steamer touched at many little villages on either side all the way. It was always interesting to see the people at the wharves, and we were not a little amused over the way the man who attended to the landing of the boat gave his orders. When he wished it to be stopped he made the same peculiar noise the drivers both in Finland and in Russia make to their horses to stop them. The sound is not difficult to imitate, but it is impossible to illustrate with letters or words, and I know of nothing to which it can be compared. The noise they make to start their horses is like the popping of champagne corks, that is if two popped in quick succession.

In about three hours we reached Muhus, which is the end of the steamer's run, as there is a five-mile rapid above. The rapid is a wild one; we could hear its roar very plainly as we drew near Muhus. Upon reaching the posthouse, and finding that the people spoke nothing but Finnish, we expected to experience some difficulty in making our wants known, and no doubt our anticipations would have been realized had it not been for the thoughtfulness of a lady residing some two miles distant, who, learning a party of Americans had arrived, and fearing we might be inconvenienced, very kindly came to see if she could render us any assistance. She spoke Finnish and French, and as two of our party spoke the latter language fluently we had no trouble whatever.